A visit to Iraq

Janet avatar

The Grand Mosque in Erbil, in the Kurdistan region of northern Iraq

I never thought I would go to Iraq.

The Middle East has always fascinated me – its history and its culture. I remember learning about the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers – the cradle of civilization – when I was at school. I’ve been to other parts of this region before, but the troubled and tragic recent history of Iraq seemed to put it out of my reach.

But I have spent the past week in Erbil – the main city of the Kurdish region of northern Iraq – and I had a wonderful time.

I warn you – there are a lot of photos in this blog – but I really wanted to share this experience with you.

This was a work trip, of course – but wasn’t going to let that stop me exploring this fascinating place.

It’s not all desert here – but it is pretty dry and dusty… and so warm compared to the terribly cold spell hitting the UK right now.

The Kurdish people have been scattered and their traditional homeland divided up among neighbouring countries – but here in Kurdistan they are working to regain their national identity. They have a national flag and a national language – their independence and culture are very important to them.

 

The ancient citadel seen through my very dirty hotel window

 

I have seldom been made more welcome in any country. In fact, a taxi driver refused to allow me to pay him for taking me to view the ancient citadel in the oldest part of the city. He said I was a guest and refused my money. That has never happened to me any other place I’ve visited.

A house in the citadel undergoing restoration. It was so cool inside compared to the heat outside.

 

 

As for the citadel – it is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world – something like 6,000 years.

It’s been badly damaged by wars, and by weather as well as time – but a project is now underway to restore it.

It is an impressive walled city on an oval mound that rises above the plain where the modern city is steadily growing.

Because of the restoration, I was limited in what I could visit – but what I did see was fabulous.

 

 

 

 

The Grand Mosque really is grand

 

From there I went to the Grand Mosque – which was a glorious site as night fell.

I expected only to see the mosque from the outside, but as soon as the prayers were finished, I was invited inside to visit this spectacular example of Islamic architecture.

All they asked was that I remove my shoes, cover my head and show respect for their place of worship – something I was more than happy to do.

I cannot describe how lovely it was.

I was told to go ahead and take photographs – but my poor skills as a photographer just cannot do justice to the beauty that was all around me.

The patterns on the ceiling of the mosque were incredibly intricate
Patterns in the mosque tiles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Entering the park under a canopy of colour

 

 

 

 

After the mosque, it was on to a nearby park where a cultural festival was being held…

I was thrilled by the park entrance –a path under a canopy of umbrellas lit by fairy lights.

After music and dancing to celebrate the New Year, it was on to dinner.

The food in the Arab world is wonderful…  Here’s what I have been eating this week.

A mixed grill kurdish style – there were hot coals under the grill to keep the food hot

 

 

 

 

It looks like wine – but it was spiced turnip juice – an acquired taste….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The flaming pots held a really tasty stew – beef I think – but I'm not quite sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, I shopped too… exploring the maze of narrow lanes in the marketplace of the old city… where several centuries of design and manufacture can be found on a single shelf.

Shopping in old Erbil

 

A dertermined knitter can find wool anywhere -although why anyone knits in this hot country is beyond me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s been a good week – thank you to my new Kurdish friends for your hospitality. I hope I can come back again.

The mosque inside the citadel – which is still being used today.

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Comments

16 responses to “A visit to Iraq”

  1. Jean Fullerton avatar

    Great to have you back safe and sound but what a fascinating place ad so unspoilt. Put me in mind of Istanbul.

    1. Janet avatar

      There are a lot of similarities Jean. The architecture and food particularly. Far fewer pushy carpet salesmen in Erbil though 🙂

  2. Beth Elliott avatar

    A wonderful snapshot of Erbil. I’m so pleased the city is vibrant and colourful. There’s a mention of the turnip juice drink in the ‘Letters’ of Ogier de Busbeq, Ambassador from the Hapsburg Emperor to Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent in 1558 – so it’s a really traditional drink in that part of the world. And that mixed grill is making my mouth water…Wish i could have joined you at the wool shop.

    1. Janet avatar

      Beth, the turnip juice tasted like it was almost that old 🙂 I was told it takes some getting used to – but I’m not sure that I would ever get used to it. The food however, was amazingly good. I did like the feel of the city – there is energy there and lots of growth that bodes well for the future.

  3. Noelene Jenkinson avatar

    Janet, sounds like you experienced an utterly fascinating place. I would have loved browsing in that wool shop myself. 🙂 I’m off to Russia in May. So many places, so little time … 🙂

    1. Janet avatar

      Noelene, I envy you – Russia is a place I have not been yet and it sounds so interesting. With the climate there – I bet knitting is a popular pastime.

  4. Eileen Ramsay avatar

    Superb blog and pics, Janet. Quite fascinating. Thanks for sharing.

    1. Janet avatar

      It was a good experience to be able to see past the news reports and see what the place and the people were really like. I am so very pleased I had the chance to do that.

  5. Henriette Gyland avatar
    Henriette Gyland

    What a fascinating place, Janet, thanks for sharing those lovely photos with us. Like Noelene I particularly loved the photo with all the knitting wool – a treasure trove for a knitter like myself!

    1. Janet avatar

      Hi Henri. I would have liked a lot more time to explore the market. There is a chance I will go back soon, which would be great. IN the meantime, I did bring home a little bit of wool – now I have to decide what to make as my “Erbil Piece”. J X

  6. Chanpreet avatar
    Chanpreet

    What beautiful photographs! I’m glad your trip was wonderful and you enjoyed yourself. That citadel and the history surrounding it is amazing! 6,000 years. Holy moly!

    1. Janet avatar

      Everywhere I go, I take a small camera with me, Chanpreet. It gives nicer pictures than my phone – and I never know when I might get the opportunity to get some good shots. Photos are so great to have – they bring back so many good memories.

  7. Anna Jacobs avatar

    Janet, I found your blog on Iraq/Erbil absolutely fascinating. I’ve found Middle Eastern food good, too. And I loved to see so many photos – which are a lot better than any photos I ever took.

    1. Janet avatar

      Hi Anna,
      I cook middle eastern style food at home a bit. The one thing I can’t make is the bread. On one trip, I watched some women in Lebanon cooking the bread on big metal domes about a meter across – with fires burning under them. That’s just not going to work in my tiny English kitchen. Janet.

  8. Tony Hocking avatar
    Tony Hocking

    Hi Janet. This blog is as good as advertised! We’ve never been nearer to that part of the world than the Moorish parts of Spain. (If they drink turnip juice we may never bother!)
    Super pictures, and we envy you the opportunity to take them.
    The woolshop shows that you are keeping in character!

    1. Janet avatar

      I really don’t know how the turnip juice got to be that colour. Even though that was not to my taste – I highly recommend the salad with the pomegranate seeds. It was very very good.